KTZ AW14 at London Fashion Week

Urban brand KTZ are influenced by eastern ethnic silhouettes and pattern. Layered, hooded and mirror embellished outfits dazzled on the catwalk this afternoon. It is clear that strong pattern is a key aesthetic for this brand who's streetwear influence also comes through in the sporty jackets and use of rib.

Religious references ran through the collection with hooded designs and eastern patterns. KMT often use social and religious difference as references for their designs which is explored through the freely moving billowing material contrasted with the heavy, restrictive jewellery worn around the neck.

Stand out pieces for me were the all-over sequin hooded dress and the head-to-toe gold ribbon outfit that looked like metallic armour.

And that's a wrap for my LFW coverage this season! To view the articles I have been writing for Who's Jack Magazine, please head to: http://wjlondon.com/author/sunna-naseer/

Image Source: Vogue
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David Koma AW14 at London Fashion Week

I cannot describe how much I loved David Koma's show at LFW today. There were some really beautiful techniques used within the collection including leather weaves, cutouts and sheer panelling. Inspiration came from the portrayal of women in Renaissance paintings. Koma took this and turned dresses into sharp, structured corset style designs with hand-woven leather strips. 

Supple leather, ponyskin and flocked chiffon came in a palette of black, cobalt blue, grey and violet, highlighted by a few cream pieces.

The fitted silhouette was contrasted with boxy outerwear, loose fitting trousers and bell-shaped sleeves. This brought a more masculine edge to this season's collection. 

My favourite details were the cutouts, off-shoulder necklines and woven strips.

Shoe designer, Alain Quilici collaborated with Koma to create open-toe boots and cutout sandals.

Image Source: The Cut
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Portugal Fashion: Joao Melo Costa and Daniela Barros at London Fashion Week AW14

International fashion is seen more and more each year at London Fashion Week, reflecting the city's diverse cultures. Tonight, I went to see a back-to-back show featuring two Portuguese designers. 
All images except the last one are copyright of fashion week photographer, Amie Caswell.
The first to show was Daniela Barros whose geometrical prints in monochrome and navy were strikingly bold. The cuts were rigid and the oversized, structured pieces gave an androgynous feel. I particularly loved sheer inserts on some of the tailored pieces.

Barros' show was followed by Joao Melo Costa, who's collection was made up of head-to-toe block colour outfits in monochrome, navy and mustard. The fit was oversized with clean lines. My favourite aspects were the use of draping on some of the navy tailored pieces and the interesting leather embellishments.

Images: Copyright of Amie Caswell

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Shao Yen AW14 at London Fashion Week

My first stop today was Shao Yen's AW14 digital presentation in the BFC Canon Cinema at Somerset House. I was expecting just a short film showcasing the designer's newest collection so I was quite pleased to realise that the clothing was being modelled live and the digital presentation was an inspiration video that ran alongside the show. 

The set design was very intriguing in all-black with plastic wrapped chairs and black plants. Behind this a video played displaying images of rippling water. The lighting was dark and gloomy with watery blue tones.

4 models glided onto set, with long and slow movements, fitting the tranquil and peaceful sound of rain falling in the background. Each model took a post on set and posed there for a minute or two before removing a layer of the outfit to reveal the pieces underneath. Every now and again, the models switched places which kept the audience interested and gave us the opportunity to really study the clothing close-up.

The collection, entitled 'Ripple,' took inspiration from the different dimensions of water, from the effect a single droplet has on a slither of water to the tranquil or destructive properties it can have. The theme is evident within the clothing through the use of glass beads, fluid ruffles and metallic PVC. A pair of trousers was sewn together at the knee in a circular pattern, mimicking the ripple effect and there were some beautiful dresses and skirts made up of different shimmering circles that reminded me of raindrops.

The feminine ruffles and and glistening dresses were contrasted against a sportier look with oversized bomber jackets and pinstripe tailored pieces.

In particular, I loved the use of sheer panels, reflecting translucent water and large faux fur pockets on knitwear. This created a lovely hourglass silhouette along with the cinched waists which enhanced the feminine feel of some of the pieces.

Images: Sunna Naseer

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Eudon Choi AW14 at London Fashion Week

I was very impressed with Eudon Choi's show today at London Fashion Week. The collection featured a lot of soft tailoring with an overall sophisticated yet relaxed look. There was a lot of attention to detail with ruffled cuffs, shawl collars and long knitted fingerless gloves revealed under layered looks. 

Asymmetric paneling was a key theme throughout the collection with fur trims or shawl accessories. Colours were bold in cobalt blue and red paired with subdued khaki and grey with crisp white - a  lovely refined palette.

Outerwear may be Choi's signature style and he did not disappoint. Plaid, double breasted coats came in all shapes and sizes and fur was key for outerwear from all over to patchworked.

Large structured bags were held like clutches and footwear was bright and fun.

Image source: Vogue TWITTER | FACEBOOK | INSTAGRAM | BLOGLOVIN'